Auctioneer Maurice Auction, with Kerry Taylor Auctions, hosted the first-ever sale of a living designer's personal collection as Martin Margiela's archives hit the block in Paris. 'Martin Margiela: Personal Archives' featured nearly 200 lots, including items from Margiela's Hermès years, sourced from his late mother Léa Boucher's wardrobe.
Unique Pieces Break Records
The event's standout was a pair of 1991 graffiti-print Tabi boots, customized by Palais Galliera exhibition visitors, selling for €364,000. This set a new high for Maison Martin Margiela pieces. Alex Baddeley of Kerry Taylor Auctions noted, “We hoped the Tabis would do really well...for them to go for over €300,000...It's typical of Margiela.”
A top crafted from gray cotton socks after the Fall/Winter 1991-92 collection fetched €117,000, further underscoring the auction's success. Salomé Pirson, co-founder of Maurice Auction, hailed the event as “unique and historical.”
Beyond Wearable Fashion
With earnings surpassing €1.3 million, part of the revenue will benefit AIDS charities. The auction featured diverse items, from Margiela's Canette d'Or designs in 1984 to pandemic-era creations. Among the offerings were toiles, Barbie clothes, sketches, books, and DVDs. Rare finds included champagne corks from Margiela's first Paris boutique opening and his personal phone painted white.
Jean-Denis Franoux, of Paris-based Regarderobes, acquired collectible pieces like an early Canette d'Or sketch. “It was important to see and feel Martin’s legacy,” he stated. “Each piece for me is like a treasure.”
Margiela's Hands-On Curation
The auction's unique factor was Margiela's direct involvement in curating the sale. A five-day public preview recreated his studio ambiance, with objects arranged on white boxes and mannequins styled by Margiela himself. Although elusive, his touch was evident throughout the event.
“I never met him,” remarked Kerry Taylor, “but he and his team came in overnight and created the most beautiful exhibition.”
Legacy and Accessibility
While many items were not wearable, bidders, including young fashion enthusiasts, sought connection to Margiela's legacy. Liam Neupert, 24, who traveled from New York, purchased SS02 Tabi mules, expressing a wish to cherish Margiela’s designs.
The auction offered access to signed books, DVDs, and sketches, with starting prices as low as €80, allowing wider audiences a piece of Margiela’s history. Taylor emphasized, “There’s something for everyone in this sale.”
Despite the mystery surrounding Margiela, fans flocked to the preview, some moved to tears, reflecting his enduring global appeal.
Source: https://www.vogue.com/article/from-euro300000-tabis-to-barbie-clothes-inside-the-sale-of-martin-margielas-personal-archive
