Maria Grazia Chiuri showcased her debut haute couture collection for Fendi at Rome’s Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderne e Contemporanea, marking her return to Italy after nearly a decade in Paris with Dior.
Chiuri's Debut at Fendi
Chiuri's first collection at Fendi pays homage to the brand's past while infusing it with her own modern sensibilities. The collection nodded to a 1985 Fendi exhibition organized by Karl Lagerfeld, but Chiuri's approach was notably different, favoring fluid, a-line and unwaisted shapes over Lagerfeld’s oversized, power-shouldered designs.
Modern Designs with Historical Roots
The collection opened with a caftan inspired by a dress worn by Emilie Floge, a couturier known for her loose, reform style dresses. This choice highlighted Chiuri's departure from the heavily structured pieces seen in other couture shows, emphasizing comfort and freedom of movement.
Craft at the Core
Chiuri emphasized the central role of craft in Fendi's tradition, stating, “at Fendi, craft is not an element, it’s the center of their work.” Her collection featured intricate pieces such as an ivory cloak adorned with flowers made from fur, leather, and fabric, sourced from Fendi’s Echo of Love program, which upcycles existing fur.
Chiuri also introduced high-waisted, flared leg trousers, a rarity in couture, echoing similar trends seen at Silvana Armani’s Armani Privé show. Jackets with kimono-inspired proportions further demonstrated her focus on simple shapes that highlight the body’s natural silhouette.
Redefining Couture
Chiuri’s philosophy embraces simplicity, with the notion that “the body gives the silhouette,” contrasting with the structured designs she worked on at Dior. The collection included bias-cut dresses with Deco detailing, illustrating her modern and contemporary approach to Fendi couture.
This collection marks a promising start for Chiuri at Fendi, merging the brand's heritage with her fresh vision.
Source: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2026-couture/fendi
