Marke's Mario Kleine unveiled a Spring 2027 menswear collection inspired by historical influences yet designed for modern sensibilities, showcased at Berlin's ICC.
Reviving Historical Styles
Mario Kleine, based in Koln, has been known for his unique approach to menswear, infusing historical styles with present-day relevance. His latest collection, 'Remnants and Relics,' channels a 400-year journey through fashion, drawing inspiration from Virginia Woolf's character in Orlando. It features foppish suiting with a Death in Venice flair, including culotte shorts with button embellishments and high-rise officer's pants adorned with decorative cummerbunds.
Modern Twists on Classic Tailoring
In his newest collection, Kleine continues to push the boundaries of traditional tailoring. He pairs a formal white tie jacket with gray track pants and transforms a tailcoat into a charcoal tee layered over a crisp white shirt and gray shorts. This juxtaposition of formal and casual pieces reflects his intent to make historical styles wearable in 2027. The collaboration with Dr. Martens on substantial black lace-up shoes, with squared-off toes, anchors the looks firmly in the present.
Gender Fluidity and Personal Influence
Kleine's designs also explore the fluidity of gender in clothing, reminiscent of historical male attire that could be both decorative and dandy-like. "I start designing a collection with what I want to wear," Kleine explained, emphasizing how his personal style influences his work. Tailoring serves as the foundation upon which he layers more relaxed elements, such as sweatpants, to create a balanced look.
ICC: A Venue with a Story
The collection was presented at Berlin's ICC Internationales Congress Centrum, a venue that has seen various roles over the years. From a conference center to a refuge for displaced individuals, and now potentially a cultural hub, the ICC itself resonates with Kleine's theme of time travel. "This place has also been a time traveler," Kleine remarked, noting how the building seemed revitalized for his show.
Source: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/berlin-spring-2027/marke
