Undercover Faces Major Transition in 2027

Undercover is set to undergo a significant change with a planned acquisition by Human Made, marking a shift in the brand's creative control.

By Clara JensenJul 2, 2026
Undercover Faces Major Transition in 2027

Undercover Faces Major Transition in 2027

The Undercover fashion label, 80% owned by founder Jun Takahashi and 20% by his brother Hiroshi, is on the brink of a major transition as Human Made Corporation has signed a non-binding agreement to acquire the brand. The acquisition, founded by fashion icon Nigo, aims for a 100% share purchase agreement by September 2026, with a complete transfer of ownership slated for February 2027.

Implications of the Acquisition

The potential deal signifies a pivotal shift in the label's ownership and creative direction. While the Takahashi brothers are expected to remain involved with Undercover, the acquisition by Human Made could transform the brand's operations and creative philosophy. Given Human Made's reputation, this transition may introduce new dynamics to Undercover's design ethos.

Resort 2027 Collection Highlights

Undercover's latest collection, potentially its last as an independent entity, focused on playful details. The collection featured garments with lace, cat print piping, and sheer panels that altered silhouettes without obscuring them completely. A standout piece was a brown V-neck dress, accented by navy bands at the sleeves and hem. The collection also included oversized T-shirts, boxy shirts, and cropped jackets layered with translucent gauze.

Design Elements and Inspiration

The collection's designs explored the intersection of femininity and unexpected elements. White shirts paired with corset-like black panels or featuring side splits to reveal pleated layers exemplified this theme. Gingham, denim, and sailor-style ribbon ties added sweetness, contrasted by the surprising proportions and intricate details characteristic of Takahashi's work.

Future of Undercover

As Undercover anticipates this significant change, the fashion world watches closely. The full impact of Human Made's acquisition on Undercover's creative output and global influence remains to be seen. However, this partnership could herald a new chapter for the label, blending Takahashi's visionary design with Nigo's innovative business acumen.

Source: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2027/undercover