Matteo Tamburini's Spring 2027 collection for Tod's, showcased at Villa Necchi Campiglio in Milan, celebrates understated Italian elegance and craftsmanship.
Authenticity and Craftsmanship
Tamburini, refining Tod's style, draws inspiration from Italian life rituals. 'I started from a very simple idea: to continue exploring an Italian way of life defined by authenticity, quality, and a natural relationship with objects,' he stated at the event.
Held amid a relentless Milan heatwave, the presentation highlighted the subtle beauty of Italian routines over grand gestures.
Inspired by Ghirri
The collection took cues from Luigi Ghirri's 1984 photographic project, Viaggio in Italia. This perspective offered a new view of Italy, focusing on attentive, raw details rather than clichés.
Tamburini's designs embody this gaze, with clothes appearing to have 'absorbed life rather than merely dressed for it,' he explained. Absent were souvenir-shop tropes, replaced by details like the soft patina of worn leather and the ease of a silhouette designed for daily movement.
Relaxed Tailoring
The collection's tailoring is relaxed yet precise, embodying the genius of Italian dressing: looking well-dressed with minimal effort. 'An Italian wardrobe for today, precise with a certain ease, built around functionality and a natural sense of elegance,' Tamburini described.
Luxury at Tod's is in construction and material, offering discreet confidence. 'A kind of luxury that does not need to declare itself too loudly,' he noted.
Material and Palette
Materials remain central to Tod's ethos. Featherlight suedes, supple leathers, and washed linens underscore the brand's commitment to craftsmanship. The palette features sand, stone gray, and dusty blue, with warmer tones of rust and terracotta.
Highlighting the Pashmy project, Tamburini explores softness to extreme lightness. Leathers mimic cashmere, and staples gain fluidity. A featherweight shirt exemplifies this precision, feeling nearly intangible. 'I liked the idea of transforming certain wardrobe classics into pieces that feel more intimate, more sensitive,' Tamburini said.
Balancing Tradition and Modernity
At Tod's, two identities coexist: artisanal expertise and urban modernity. 'Viaggio in Italia served less as a destination than as an attitude,' Tamburini explained. His measured, sophisticated approach results in clothes that invite daily wear without unnecessary emphasis.
Source: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2027-menswear/tod-s
