Rubber has emerged as a central material in the Fall 2026 couture collections, surprising the fashion world with its unconventional yet bold presence.
Schiaparelli's Deep-Sea Inspiration
Schiaparelli, under the creative direction of Daniel Roseberry, introduced latex and silicone into half of its Fall 2026 collection. Roseberry, inspired by the ocean's abyss, unveiled creations like latex ensembles adorned with tentacles and silicone busts crafted with a Paris-based prop studio known for life-like productions. This innovative approach caught the attention of Hollywood, with Law Roach sending a white bustier look to Zendaya for the London premiere of The Odyssey.
Jean Paul Gaultier and Duran Lantink's Debut
Duran Lantink debuted his couture collection for Jean Paul Gaultier, showcasing body-contorting designs with materials such as TPU and latex, creating a striking visual impact. These pieces highlighted the flexibility and boldness rubber brings to high fashion.
Dior and Lynda Benglis Collaboration
Jonathan Anderson's sophomore Dior couture show featured rubber elements through a collaboration with American artist Lynda Benglis. Anderson utilized Benglis's pioneering techniques, such as pouring rubber latex, to create dresses with oil-spill-like patterns. This collaboration builds on their relationship started at Loewe in Spring 2024.
Rubber in Couture: A Designer's Perspective
Laura Pulice, founder of VEX Clothing, emphasizes the meticulous craftsmanship required for working with latex. Each piece is handcrafted, akin to fine leatherwork—a testament to the couture process. Pulice notes that latex's unique pigment absorption and the bespoke nature of each item make it a favorite for avant-garde designers.
A Historical Context and Future Outlook
Rubber's history in fashion includes its use by Helmut Lang, Thierry Mugler, and Alexander McQueen. Despite its fetishistic past, rubber's mainstream adoption in 2026 signals a shift. Rick Owens collaborated with Florence Druart for his Spring 2027 menswear show, reinforcing rubber's growing runway presence. While the sexual connotations of rubber have not entirely faded, its acceptance in couture marks a new era for this challenging material.
Source: https://www.vogue.com/article/can-rubber-be-couture
